This 10' long section is cut from 60" cloth, the widest on the market. Lay a length of 1x2 flat on the table inside the ring of coaster blocks so that the edge of the 1x2 sits against the top edge of a coaster block. I had not used a speed cloth already and found out after opening my package that the material has a real polyester feeling and I would have preferred a more felt like feeling for my poker table cloth. Show only Rollout Gaming items. Folding Poker Table x 1. Product arrived quickly, but, was folded as oppose to rolled and had to spend 2 hours ironing with care to smooth again. Share your thoughts with other customers.
Barrington Poker Table
Nail the coaster in place from the underside of the table using 1-inch nails. Hold the nail gun at a slight angle to prevent any portion of the nail from poking up through the coaster piece. Lay a length of 1x2 flat on the table inside the ring of coaster blocks so that the edge of the 1x2 sits against the top edge of a coaster block. Mark the distance between the angled ends of two coasters. Lay the piece in place, and mark the remaining pieces until all the pieces of the inner ring are sized.
Apply glue to the underside and ends of each piece, set them in place, and nail through the underside of the table to secure them. To help position the nail gun underneath the table, cut a scrap piece of 1x2 to the distance the inner ring sits from the edge of the table and nail it to a second perpendicular block to create a T-shaped spacer.
Hook the T on the edge of the table with the stem underneath, and position the nail gun at the end of the stem. Mark the corners of the table on the top edge of the 1x3. Cut the MDF playing surface to this size.
Lay the cut piece centered over the open center space. Mark the joints of the inner ring of 1x2s on the playing surface. Connect the marks on either side of each corner to create a small octagon. Using a circular saw, cut the corners off the playing surface. Label the corresponding side of the playing surface and table.
This way, once the felt is wrapped around the playing surface, you'll know which sides align. Coat the underside of the felt and the top of the playing surface with spray adhesive. Allow the adhesive to dry until it feels tacky. Set the playing surface upside down on the center of the felt.
Wrap the felt over one edge and secure it in place with a staple. Wrap the felt over the next side, and fold the excess under like gift wrap. Once all the edges are pulled tight and the felt is glued and stapled in place, cut off the excess with utility scissors and set the playing surface aside. Cut two 1x4 boards to the width of the upper part of the newel post.
Apply glue to the ends of the short pieces, and sandwich them between the longer pieces to create a box. Center the assembled collar on the underside of the table, and mark its inside and outside perimeters. Apply glue to the top edge of the collar, and place it on the underside of the table, realigned with your previous marks. Allow the glue to dry until it holds the collar in place—or toenail a few nails around its edge to hold it—and flip the table over. Using a countersink bit, prepare the pilot holes and drive 2-inch screws through the plywood and into the top edges of the collar.
To position the taper of the newel post about half way between the table and the floor, cut the top and bottom of the post. First mark the cutlines 29 inches apart on all four sides of the post. Place the post on the miter saw, and cut it to size. If your miter saw can't cut the thickness of the entire post, cut part way through, then roll the post to the opposite face to finish the cut.
Repeat to cut the second line. Center the short face of a corbel on the post, flush with its bottom edge. Use a straightedge to mark a registration line on the bottom of the post and corbel. Apply wood glue to the corbel, and set it back in place.
Repeat to create a second countersink hole beside the first. Drive 6-inch timber screws through the countersink holes and into the corbel and newel post. Repeat Steps 15 and 16 to secure the rest of the corbels to each face of the newel post, one at a time.
Slip the top of the stand into the collar affixed to the underside of the table. Drive 2-inch screws through each side of the collar and into the post. Mark lengths of the nose and cove molding along the edges of the plywood lid.
Apply glue to the back side and ends of each molding piece and to the edges of the lid. Attach the molding to the lid, flush with its surface, by carefully nailing 1-inch nails through the molding and into the edge of the lid. Fill the fastener holes and joints with stainable wood filler, and thoroughly sand the entire assembly with grit sandpaper. Wipe on a stain finish; once dry, apply a protective coat of tung oil, wax, or polyurethane. If desired, line the inset of each coaster with adhesive-backed cork.
Once the final finish is dry, fit the felt-covered playing surface inside the inner ring of 1x2s, and place the lid on the table. Get one 4x4-foot half sheet. Corbels to make the feet. Get four 10 inches. Get a 4x4-foot piece to cover and wrap the edges of the playing surface. Skip to main content. Get the latest news, updates and offers from This Old House to your inbox. Photo by Ryan Benyi. Custom Poker Cloth Layout with 1 Hr. Dealer Opening with Aluminum locking Chip Tray.
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